I lived just a few blocks from the Xania Harbor pictured below. The town is old (some say neolithic) and has been invaded by various groups over the centuries. The house I shared with my friend and fellow teacher Frank was over 600 years old according to our landlord. It certainly creaked and moaned as if it was very old. We sometimes heard what we thought were people walking around overhead and teased each other that we had ghosts. Who knows? There was also supposed to be a secret tunnel under the floors – down to the harbor for escape during invasions. Not sure how much of that to believe.

The upper floor had the bedrooms and I had to walk through Frank’s room to tiptoe down the stairs. Frank was not so communicative in the morning. I tried to curb my enthusiasm for chatting. After returning from teaching in some remote villages, we’d settle down to dinner, excellent conversation and endless games of Scrabble.
Our bathroom was outside in our courtyard – just a few steps from the front door but if you’re under the impression that Crete is always warm, it’s NOT! (Side note: once at Christmas Frank and I were caught between two snow plows in the mountainous villages of Crete.) The bathroom had running water, a sink and a shower but could be pretty chilly and bathing involved great speed.
Xania has an old market. We shopped here regularly. One day I went by myself and our landlord, who had a fruit stall there greeted me. I tried to reply in my best Greek and asked him how his mother was. Of course, I was asking (unwittingly) how my mother was and he naturally appeared confused. Apparently he did not know how my mother was but appreciated me asking. Anyway, to show hospitality he offered me a banana and a chair. I then had to sit in the market, on that chair, and eat my banana. He wanted to feed me even more fruit but I assured him (again in my best Greek) that I had to go because I had a ‘kitchen’ (trying to say chicken) in my oven. Of course, I didn’t realize until later my errors…usually the way with me and Greek.

If you’re interested in learning more about the history of Xania, visit https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chania